Building the knight

Hellolo,

today the knight gets built.


Strap one was glued on, and then bended into the right position.


Same thing on the other side.


Then the small strings were glued on.


Than I had to make a knot in it. It was a bit tricky, but finally I managed it.


At last the end of the belt was fixed, and the knight was ready for paint.



I decided to paint the sword and the helmet seperate. Way easier.


Small painting teaser :D Amazingly much fun to 

LG






Review: After the battle; Andrea Miniatures

Hello, hello,

after an unbelievable long time of not painting any privat miniatures, I started my U.S.GreenBeret a few weeks ago, and got quiet nice results on it. But at the moment he doesent want me to paint him, so I had to search an alternative Mini, which wants to join the duke with me.
So I choose the famous andrea bust, after the battle, which shows a knight after a long and hard fight. Pretty good base to bring some emotions on a mini.
So lets start the review:


Pretty simple box, nothing special here. But btw an absolutely amazing paintjob on their label. The face could move every second. Amazing


At the inside you'll find two resin parts, and seven metal parts. 


First thing to look at is a nice casted, and absolutely clean resinsocket. In my opinion its just way too small for the bust, and the angle of the bust to stand on it is wrong as I think. But it will be used for another nice mini for sure.


The Resinpartof the miniature is also the mainpart. Very nice casted, nearly no moldline, and absolutely high detailed byrnie.



A bit resinstuff in here, but thats all.


The helmet is casted in White Metal, which is very good. As we all know, resin gets soft under heat. And lamps in a cabinet are hot, and it already happened that several resinparts very bending under the lamps' heat. So, pretty good, and well planned of Andrea.


It fits quite good to the head, just some small spaces, no problem.


The sword.
Nice fine structure of rope on the top, no moldline. Great, whatever ;)



Those four small parts are two leather straps for the helmet, and two strings for his shirt.

The size of the details is very nice. I like stuff like that.


Next time, building it up.

Greets




Small painting helper.

Good evening together,

because I try to paint nearly every evening the last time and the next time I hope ;-), it's importent to sit in the right position. Its very hard when the altitude difference between top of the seat and the top of the table is to small.
My first change of my workbench was to raising the high of my painting table, <<<click>>>

Then I saw this at a picture of the workbench by moses (one of the painters who paint a goblin for the community project)...

...but I 'm a carpenter, so I try to build the perfect one for my workbench. Here is the reasult:
 

the dimensions are 25cm (wide), 15,5cm (high) and 10cm (deep)


On the bottom of the painting helper I glued 6 suction knobes to fix it on the table.


 ..in aktion ;-)


For my it's a giant alleviation and great help to hold the miniature. Especially when the miniature is big  with a heavy wight.

Just enjoy painting without pain!

A army project: high elves in autumn/fall Part1

Good morning,

today I want to show you my "by the way"- army project: high elves in autumn/fall.
It was so a hard long work to build the elves, remove mold lines, building up the bases, etc...
I start my way to increase my  painting motivation and painting skill. After the first reverses I try another way, this time it works (and I 'm very happy about this).
Painting is not painting, painting for showcase you need much more concentration and skill then for painting armys (tabletop standard).

And like a great painters says: "Painting skill is like a muscle, training will increase your skill and let the muscle grow." (Jarhead from massive voodoo)

And for all gamers, I play in my army miniatures that looks cool for my, not a list to win the match ;-)

Here is my army, motivation pusher and skill increaser project: high elves in autumn/fall.

  The army main colours will be blue and silver.

The high elve archers are normaly the archers of the wood elves...

...the main unit are form the starterbox and spearmen.

The sowrd master of hoeth are a part of the army because they are a part of the startbox and I like to paint swords :-)

One of my favorit units, the white lions of chrace. Really like there dynamic.

The Ellyrian Reavers are a perfect guard for my mage, I hope so...

And one of the mages. The horse is one of the horses out of the chariot box.

 And every army needs a special figure, my one is the standard bearer. He is build out of different parts of the lions of chrace, the chariot box, spearman box, some parts of the repeater bolt thrower and much green stuff.... very much green stuff... But the reasult is looking nice for me.

Soooo, hope you like the army. It will take al ot of time but it's ok, I also need much practise.

Have a good day, and keep on painting.

How to make plaster

Hellolo,

today I want to show you a quiet simple basing technic, which gives your bases a very realistic look. The technic isn't invented by me or new, also seen very often, but I haven't seen a tutorial about it yet. So I decided to do one for you.
The first time I saw it, was at Ben and Matt's workshop in Lüdenscheid, which was amazing. And if you look at several top rated projects on cmon or P&P, you will often see this kind of Detail on the bases.

So what you need is a brickwall, or every kind of wall. But a brickwall should be the best, to get some structure under the plaster, which will look out of  plastergaps, which come through fight-,  or wheatering damage. Next thing is Milliput. I used normal standard grey milliput. A sculpting tool, some superglue and a drybrush, or a toothbrush.

So lets start:


First I glued the brickwall on my socket, using superglue. 

To get some dynamic on the base, which will be a small djunglescene at the end, with not much happening on it, I didn't glue the brickwall in line, but a bit sloped. This is a small and easy thing to give your bases some happening and life, and make it interesting for the eye. But thats gonna be another tutorial soon.


Next step was mixing the Milliput.


 The most important thing now is to make thin chips of milliput in your hand. The reason why you have to do this in your hand, is the edge, which has too look like broken. If you try to sculpt it directly on the brickwall, it wont work like doing it in your fingers, and just rip off the edge. It looks way more realistic.


Now you can glue it on the wall, and maybe fix it a bit with your sculpting tool and superglue under it. 

Another way to do it, is to let the chips dry on a medium, and glue them on the brickwall after drying. The problem here is, that the wall has to be really flat, to avoid spaces between plaster and bricks. Pretty good example for this is picster's great Giu's robot repairs, where you can see this technic in perfection. I think he did it like that ;)


So now cover the wall with your chips. Try to get a realistic result, by using normal wheatering and damage princips.

-edges get more damage, than flats
-where bricks fall off, there won't be any plaster anymore
-where water centers the most while raining, rust and plants will drop off the plaster after some time
-where bullets hited the wall, the plaster will fall off, or at least get big damage

What you also have to think about is the size of the chips. Try not to make the single chips in the same size, but different sizes. Just like wheathering a vehicle or armour. If you do every scratch or corrosion on the same size, it looks absolutely unrealistic. Same thing here.



Now you take a drybrush, or a toothbrush, and stamp the milliput with it. Not too much, not too heavy. Do it til you like the result. This will give your plaster a nice structure, and makes it interesting to look at.

Now its done. Simple and fast, with a great result.

For painting, Ben gave me an excelent hint. Just prime it 2K, black and white, and layer some colours directly on the primer. Like brown, some blue for shadows, some grren for vegetation marks, some red rustpigments for corrosion, and so on. Use some white, to sharp the edges, and some black to deep the shadows, and your done. Also very nice and simple. 

Bad picture, sorry. But you can see this one with better pics on CMON

http://www.coolminiornot.com/313388?browseid=732965



I hope you like this tut, and have a try. Now on this technic. Let me know :)

Greets