Retreat? Hell, we just got here!

The forgeworld Ogryn is done and submitted at CMoN, you can vote and comment here; . Aimed for a nightmarish feeling and i hope i pulled it of. its very dark but its the way i like it ;)

Plinth is from plinthcountry , which i can recommend. cheap fast shipping and great quality products.

Time went by fast - GD is coming closer! A short WIP report

It seems like the days went by really fast the closer the GD-Event is coming. Most of you will know that those days are full of preparataionwork and final touches. Maybe a last, really fast project to get another entry. And maybe days full of stress just because you re not in time with your latest project. That`s what happened to me. But I try to keep it cool. It`s my first GD ever and my entry should be a mini which I could be proud of. so no rushing, no half painted places or a bad basework.

Today I want to share my current progress on my ork sqwadron commander. There`s not much what happened, but I am satisfied with the result so far. Not every area is finished there, so don`t worry about bad blendings right now (walkie talkie arm; trouser...).

Before I started to paint on his left arm I tried a small freehand-tattoo. Nothing spectacular, but nice for a first try since shadows and highlights would cover it later anyway. I ll add a similar freehand later when everything on his arm is done, but not in white. Instead I would use a dark red to not pull attention to his arm.


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What do you need?

Step by step








Marmor Malen

Da mir oft die Frage gestellt wurde wie ich den Marmor gemalt habe, hier mal ein kleines Tut dazu mit Bildern. Ich hoffe es hilft dem einem oder anderen. Kann aber gleich sagen, dass es zu einem der schwersten malerischen Sachen gehört, da etwas chaotisches/natürliches am schwersten darzustellen ist.

- Grundieren
- Nasspalette
- Nass in Nass
- Feine Linien Malen

Was wird benötigt?
Verwendete Pinsel:
  • Windsor Newton Gr. 3
    Für feine Linien
  • Größe 6 Pinsel
    Pinsel habe ich zwei verschiedene verwendet einmal einen Größe 6 Pinsel zum tupfen und für das Wet-in-Wet am Anfang.

 Verwendete Farben:
  • Chaos Black
  • Skull White
  • Bleached Bone
  • Gravenyard Earth
  • Ivory
  • Abschattierungsmischung (Chaos Black + Hawk Turquoise)
Schritt für Schritt

Hier die ersten Bilder nach dem Wet-in-Wet und dem ersten Tupfen mit Skull White, Bleached Bone, Gravenyard Earth, Ivory.


Jetzt kommt eigendlich der schwierige Teil der Versuch sehr sehr feinde Linie zu malen die sehr chaotisch verlaufen, damit es natürlich wirkt. Ich habe einen Winsor Newton Größe 3 dafür verwendet. Dabei halte ich den Pinsel ein wenig anders als sonst und leg meine Hand nicht auf das alles schön zietrig ist :D.

Leider sind die Bilder ein wenig unscharf geworden die jetzt folgen, aber hoffe man erkennt es noch.

Nachdem man die feinen Linien mit Chaos Black gemalt hat wird wieder getupft.

Diese zwei Schritte wiederhole ich sehr oft. In diesem Fall hab ich das 6 mal gemacht. Umso öfters man das macht umso natürlich wirkt es finde ich, aber irgendwann ist es natürlich auch mal genug :).

Anschließend mal ich dann wieder sehr feine Linien, aber in diesem Fall mit der Abschattierungsmischung und ein wenig mehr verdünnt damit es nicht zu sehr hervorsticht.

Nach dem Schritt kommt dann eingendlich nur noch ein bischen malen nach Zahlen :). Also ich nehm eine Helle Farbe (bei Morathi auch einige in Turquoise) und lasier mir einige in Umrisse eingeschlossene Felder. Am Ende ziehe ich dann noch Glanzlack mit ein bischen der Grundfarbe und mit Wasser verdünnt drüber.

Ogryn update

So the Ogryn is with exception of some little details done! i can say, painting this miniature has not made me love forgeworld particulary, it had soooooo many flaws i had to correct that halted the painting progress. grrrr. next one forgeworld ogryn ill paint in the future will be inspected with magnifyer before i start the brushwork!

Time to start airbrushing the base...


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How to photograph your figures

I ve found a really nice and well-written tutorial about how to get good pictures of your painted miniatures.

As I don`t have written this on my own I want to please you to take notice that this tutorial was written by Giovanni Azzara. You can find his blog here:

And here`s the tutorial, simply used copy and paste:

Dear all,

This is an article I was thinking of doing for quite sometime now.

Is a simple explanation on how to make great pictures of our models, without any special or (too) expensive asset.

Here is what we need:

A digital camera that must have the manual White Balance setting and maybe a macro lens/capability.

A tripod

2 table lamps, (you can use the one you work on your models)

2 smaller lamp

oven paper

background paper (A3/A2 coloured bristol paper are perfect)

a white sheet of paper

a room with all your lights off except the one above

Place the camera on the tripod.

Let's start with the camera settings: try to use the higher stop from f.18 to higher, let the camera decide the exposure time, with your tripod it won't be a problem.

Now, check the user manual of your camera and check how to measure and set up manually the White Balance.

The concept is that different bulbs or environment have different light temperatures, where human eye can understand and judge the white under different lights sources for the digital camera is not the same. White balance (WB) is the process of removing unrealistic colour casts, so that objects which appear white in person are rendered white in your photo. I've found a better explanation here:

Usually, you need to go in your settings menu, look for White Balance>manual settings; switch on the lights you will use to take the pictures, place the white piece of paper under the lights and take a picture of it while in the WB menu, the camera will elaborate and your white balance should be now set. Anyway, check your camera user manual.

Trust me, this step will improve your pictures dramatically!

Ok, let’s set up the stage:

Place the A3/A2 bristol paper of the colour you like (avoid to use the same colour of the subject i.e. if the uniform is red, avoid a red background..) try to make a soft bend when rest on the table, something like the drawing below (Sorry I’m not Leonardo…)

Place a box/stand where you are going to place your figure at least 30cm from the background. This box stand should be as high as the 2 small lamps you are going to use, better if taller.

Now the set up of the lights:

As a general notes, I use very cheap ikea lamps, I haven’t spent more that 40 euros for all the 4 lamps. I use, for the main lamps, 30W energy efficient bulbs with 6400k light temperature (they are equivalent of 100/150W incandescent lamp), normal 25w lights for the small lamps.

Place the 2 table lamps, 45° in front of the figure and at 45° angles from the top of the figure, again the following drawing should explain better.

Also place one or two piece of the oven paper in front of the lamps, to soften the light.

Now place the 2 small lights on the back of the stand resting on the table and pointing towards the background, they should light the bottom part of the background and give a gradient tone to it.

The gradient tone is a nice touch, look at the following picture, bare in mind that the backgroud is a piece of black cloth, see how nice id the gradient effect with the small lamps on.

That’s it, place the camera in front of the subject, choose a stop above f.18 and shoot; because the exposure time will be long, better if you use a remote control to shoot, if you don’t have one, no worries, just use the self timer.

You can adjust the exposure compensation value, if you notice that the picture is too dark or to light, usually I adjust mine to -1.3 but you need to check with your camera/lens/lights.

Take as many pictures as you can, every time take notes of stop, exposure etc.etc and check which one is better, if yur camera allow it, save these settings so you can reuse it in the future.

I hope this article make sense and will help you with your photography.